The British may not have the most sophisticated palates, but we are adorable in our culinary urgesAs we sit awaiting the beef rib trolley in the Grand Divan dining room at the whoppingly sized Simpson’s-in-the-Strand, we...
Read MoreChips, fish fingers, pizza … restaurant food for children is depressingly predictable. Are there more adventurous options? I took my four-year-old daughter on a month-long mission to find outWe’re heading out for...
Read MoreBrings old-school charm to a touristy part of townBurro, a new Italian restaurant in Covent Garden, London, had been on my horizons even before the napkins were on order, because Conor Gadd, the chef-owner, has form. His first...
Read MoreEndo Kazutoshi spent decades climbing to the top of the culinary world, only for a devastating fire to threaten it all. I joined him in the aftermath as he travelled around his homeland, visiting the people that helped make...
Read MoreThe ever-changing menu is a paean to things that make me happyThe Wellington has been drawing crowds to Margate of late, due to a recent takeover by chef Billy Stock and front-of-house queen Ellie Topham. Stock is formerly of...
Read MoreThere’s a system that creates and condones these toxic restaurant environments – and too often it’s rewarded by institutions such as MichelinLauren Joseph is a writer and chefThe fine-dining world has been...
Read MoreShow up, speak up … and just be nice. Here is one anonymous server’s advice for a happy mealHospitality is in a right state at the moment, what with the seemingly never-ending shitshow of rising rents and rates,...
Read MoreI’m somewhat in love with this weird, bold, silly restaurantTrillium, the latest Birmingham restaurant by Glyn Purnell, is absolutely not one of those po-faced, sedate, mumbly kind of places where some Ludovico Einaudi is...
Read MoreAre influencers really the biggest problem facing waiting staff? Not compared with the customer who demanded I pick up her dog’s poo …Influencers have had a bad time of it at restaurants recently. There they are,...
Read MoreThis is one of those places where I say: use it or lose it. Some hot dining spots seem to expand almost the moment they open, but east London’s Vietnamese stalwart Sông Quê has waited almost 25 years to spawn a...
Read MoreRipping up your own rulebook after 20-odd years is brave, but Koba 2.0 is somehow still kicking itSometimes, my memories of a restaurant begin at the end, and at Koba in Fitzrovia, central London, the enduring image is the warm,...
Read MorePunchy cocktails and roaringly traditional Greek food in the heart of BirminghamCylla, a classy Greek restaurant on Newhall Street, Birmingham, draws inspiration, it says, from Scylla, the legendary Greek man-eating sea monster...
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